American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Various Falls on Rock, Protection Problems, Pulling Belayers Off, New York, Mohonk Preserve, Shawangunks

  • Accident Reports
  • Accident Year:
  • Publication Year: 1993

VARIOUS FALLS ON ROCK, PROTECTION PROBLEMS, PULLING RELAYERS OFF

New York, Mohonk Preserve, Shawangunks

Thirteen accidents were reported in 1992, six of which resulted in fractures—the most serious injuries. In two cases, belayers were pulled from their positions. All but one of the accidents were falls resulting from climbing, including two solo climbers who fell to the ground. One male (47), however, fell because his nut placement demonstration on practice rock above the Uberfall pulled out when he tested it.

One of the reasons attributed to fewer accidents in the area for this year is that there were an unusual number of rain days on the weekends. (Source: Mohonk Preserve)

(Editor’s Note: An independent report of a fall from Birdland (5.8), resulting in a severe rope burn behind one knee, came in with an interesting comment. It seems the climber who fell— about 20 feet—tried to hook the rope with his leg and wound up dangling upside down. His partner concluded that, “…a chest harness seems a necessity, especially when climbing where a fall out over an overhang may be realized." This conclusion is not necessarily correct, as research by the French Commission de Securite in Chamonix has shown that free falls with chest harnesses are likely to result in whip-lash injury.)

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