AAC Publications - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org

Rope Parted (Worn Through on Rock Edge While Jumarring), Fall on Rock, British Columbia, Coast Mountains, Stawamus Chief

ROPE PARTED (WORN THROUGH ON ROCK EDGE WHILE JUMARRING), FALL ON ROCK

British Columbia, Coast Mountains, Stawamus Chief

On April 8, 1992, Grace W. left her climbing partner near the south summit of Stawamus Chief in order to examine a wall for new route prospects. She was jumarring up the wall at 1415 when her nine mm rope apparently chafed through on a rock ledge. She fell 300 meters and was killed. Police, ambulance, fire department, and Provincial Emergency Program personnel located her body on a ledge and removed it by helicopter.

Analysis

The repeated motions involved in jumarring seem likely to aggravate any tendency for a sharp edge to damage a rope. To minimize the risk, climbers should use the thickest rope that will pass through the jumars, watch for sharp edges and pad them whenever possible. (Source: Ian Kay, Vancouver)