FAILURE TO TEST PROTECTION, ANCHOR SLING FAILURE, FALL ON ROCK

Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Spray Slabs

Spray Slabs is a practice area near Banff. In July, 1990, a leader (46) climbed a short distance above his belayer, clipped into a very old 9 mm webbing sling on a piton, and committed his weight to it. The knot held, but the sling broke and the victim fell, bounced off a narrow ledge, and landed on a wider ledge. He suffered bruises and a broken ankle.

Analysis

An existing anchor, especially a sling, is always suspect and relied on. (Source: T. Auger, Warden Service, Banff National Park)