American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Failure to Test Protection, Anchor Slng Failure, Fall on Rock, Alberta, Rocky Mountain, Spray Slabs

  • Accident Reports
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  • Publication Year: 1991

FAILURE TO TEST PROTECTION, ANCHOR SLING FAILURE, FALL ON ROCK

Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Spray Slabs

Spray Slabs is a practice area near Banff. In July, 1990, a leader (46) climbed a short distance above his belayer, clipped into a very old 9 mm webbing sling on a piton, and committed his weight to it. The knot held, but the sling broke and the victim fell, bounced off a narrow ledge, and landed on a wider ledge. He suffered bruises and a broken ankle.

Analysis

An existing anchor, especially a sling, is always suspect and relied on. (Source: T. Auger, Warden Service, Banff National Park)

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