AAC Publications - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org

Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out, Inexperience, Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Cascade Mountain

FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, INEXPERIENCE

Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Cascade Mountain

In July, 1990, a climber (19) fell while leading on cliffs just left of the Cascade waterfall. His first protection, a Friend, pulled out. The next one, a chock, held, but the victim fell about ten meters onto 60 degree rock, breaking a wrist and an ankle. His belayer lowered him to a ledge and went for help.

Analysis

The place where this party got into trouble has often fooled inexperienced climbers before: easy slabs gradually steepen and the rock is loose. The climbers had just purchased a load of brand new equipment. Their previous experience was limited mostly to artificial climbing walls in the city. (Source: T. Auger, Warden Service, Banff National Park)