ANCHOR FAILURE WHILE LOWERING OFF

Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Cascade Mountain

During a climb of Mother’s Day (5.6) in April, 1990, the leader placed a Friend and used it to lower back down. This anchor pulled out and he fell about three meters to a ledge, sustaining a broken ankle. He was grabbed by a companion and saved from a much longer fall. A third member of the party rappelled off and scrambled down for help.

Analysis

The failure here was in not ensuring that the single anchor was adequate. There is much evidence that extra care must be taken in placing Friends. (Source: T. Auger, Banff Warden Service)