American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, Ontario, Buffalo Crag

  • Accident Reports
  • Accident Year:
  • Publication Year: 1990


Ontario, Buffalo Crag

On April 30, 1989, at 1550, Larry Forsyth was leading Flying Kiwi (5.8). He placed four pieces of protection on the route, including two #6 rocks (sic) just below the crux move. Attempting the crux, he fell, and the two rocks (sic) pulled out, resulting in an eight-meter fall to the ground, with a possible mid-way ledge encounter. Larry landed on his side and buttocks, sustaining a fractured lower lumber vertebra. (Source: Larry Forsyth)


Protection would have been better with larger rocks (sic) and perhaps with one more piece lower down. The climber was lucky to land on relatively flat ground between a sharp rock and a tree stump. Though not sustaining head injury, he should have worn his helmet. He was very fortunate to have three good climbers with first aid training in close proximity. They stabilized him to prevent further damage. (Source: Larry Forsyth)

(Editor's Note: We are not aware of “rocks” being manufactured in different sizes to be used for protection. We think the climber means “chocks. ”)

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