American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Inadequate Protection—Rappel Anchor Knot Failure, Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount Rundle

  • Accident Reports
  • Accident Year:
  • Publication Year: 1990

INADEQUATE PROTECTION—RAPPEL ANCHOR KNOT FAILURE

Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount Rundle

On July 2, 1989, two climbers were beginning to rappel down the Rundle Ridge area of Mount Rundle. The first climber started rappelling using a mechanical braking device. When he was about six meters above the ground, the rappel anchor sling knot parted. He fell and fractured his ankle. He was slung out by the Banff Park Warden Service. (Source: M. Ledwidge, Banff National Park Warden Service)

Analysis

Both climbers had little experience. They did not use a water knot to tie the anchor

sling. It is not known what kind of knot was used, but it came undone, causing the fall. (Source: M. Ledwidge, Banff National Park Warden Service)

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