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Reported Mountaineering Accidents, Table III

Table III



1951-86

1959-86

1987

1987





USA

CAN

USA

CAN



Terrain











Rock 

... 2378

296

150

13



Snow 

... 1407

243

36

10



Ice 

... 108

48

6

2



River 

.... 12

3

0

0



Unknown ; 

.... 18

6

0

0



Ascent or Descent











Ascent : ; 

... 2079

307

144

8



Descent : . 

... 1426

209

45

16



Unknown : 

... 228

41

3

1



Immediate Ci&ilse











Fall or slip on rock 

... 1516

147

109

6



Slip on snow or ice 

... 561

112

20

4



Falling rock or object 

... 313

91

29

2



Exceeding abilities 

... 261

26

17

1



Avalanche 

... 214

89

6

2



Exposure 

... 182

12

5

0



Stranded 

... 151

36

8

2



Illness1 

... 149

12

12

0



Failure of Rappel 

... 134

18

1

0



Loss of control/voluntary glissade .

... 127

11

4

1



Fall into crevasse/moat 

... 93

29

4

0



Piton pulled out 

... 68

12

1

0



Failure to foilow route 

... 74

17

9

1



Faulty use of crampons 

... 40

3

3

1



Lightning * . 

... 34

3

0

2



Skiing 

... 30

7

0

2



Nut/Chdck pulled out 

... 27

3

6

0



Ascending too fast 

... 8

0

7

0



Equipment failure 

... 4

2

0

0





... 57

9

8

0



Unknown3 

... 45

7

1

1



Contributory Causes











Climbing unroped 

... 720

96

21

2



Exceeding abiblities 

... 692

118

13

4



Inadequate equipment 

... 416

46

15

2



Weather 

... 252

22

13

7



Climbing alone 

. ... 225

35

7

2



Placed no/inadequate protection .

... 186

21

30

1



Darkness 

... 84

11

4

1



Nut/chock pulled out 

... 94

3

12

1



No hard hat 

... 94

10

20

3



Piton pulled out 

... 75

10

1

0



Party separated 

... 66

13

3

0



Exposure 

... 43

9

0

0



Failure to test holds 

... 41

10

6

1



Inadequate belay 

... 24

5

6

0



Poor position 

... 18

5

11

0



Failed to follow directions ....

... 19

1

3

0



Illness1 

... 17

2

7

1



Equipment failure 

... 4

2

1

0



Other2 

... 99

26

5

2





1951-86

1959-86

1987

1987





USA

CAN

USA

CAN



Age of Individuals





Under 15 

...95 

11

1

0



15-20 

...991

173

21

3



21-25 

...1082

192

49

3



26-30 

...640

138

49

6



31-35 

...315

62

38

3



36-50 

...426

78

39

1



Over 50 

...55

9

7

1 11



Unknown 

...574

279

21





Experience Level





None/Little 

...1231

222

35

5



Moderate (1 to 3 years)

...1070

234

42

5



Experienced 

...807

134

81

15



Unknown 

...841

192

57

0



Month of Year





January 

...131

6

1

0



February 

...138

29

2

0



March .......

...186

32

5

1



April

...215

18

19

2



May

...436

32

27

2



June

...564

33

45

2



July

...678

162

32

12



August

...609

172

18

4



September .....

...897

29

22

1



October . . . . ;

...224

25

13

1



November 

...114

3

5

0



December 

...35

10

3

o



Type of Injury/Illness (Data since 1984)









Fracture 

...190

18

80

10



Bruise 

...46

5

23

2



Abrasion 

...57

4

27

1



Laceration 

...77

5

45

3



Sprain/strain 

...39

6

23

2



Concussion 

...20

4

8

1





Dislocation 

...10

0

4

2



Puncture 

...10

2

o

o



Frostbite 

...18

0

4

0



HAPE 

...13

0

2

0



Acute Mountain Sickness

...4

0

2

o



CE 

...1

0

1

0



Hypothermia 

...18

5

5

o



Other4 

...57

7

4

2



None 

...14

0

3

3



1 These include: a) fatigue/exhaustion (15); b) HAPE, CE, AMS (5); c) an epileptic seizure.

These include: a) failure to tie in short while seconding a traverse and using ascenders; b)rope wrapped around neck three times; c) caught crampons on pack strap and tripped; d) dehydration; e) wasps; f) not familiar with equipment; g) mis-com- munication; h) protection got stuck.

Solo climbers on Mt. McKinely and on Mt. Logan disappeared.

These include flail chest/tension pneumothorax and collapsed lung.

(Ed. Note: Months of year data for USA in 1986 were incorrectly entered.)