American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Fall on Rock, Placed Inadequate Protection, Friend Pulled Out, Inadequate Equipment — Shoes, Arizona, Oak Creek Canyon

  • Accident Reports
  • Accident Year:
  • Publication Year: 1987

FALL ON ROCK, PLACED INADEQUATE PROTECTION, FRIEND PULLED OUT, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT-SHOES

Arizona, Oak Creek Canyon

On October 1, 1986, Mark Monroe (26) and Carol Williams (26) were making an ascent of “Geology Sign Crack” (5.8), which was in good quality basalt. Mark was leading the route and had just passed the crux move. He had placed a #1 Friend in a flaring crack and tested it with three quick jerks. He was two meters above this piece into some face climbing when he came off and fell about three meters. The Friend came out straight away and Mark fell until his next piece held him. On his way down, his foot caught a small flake and broke his talus bone. (Source: Reed Thorne, Captain—Technical Rescue, Sedona Fire Department)

Analysis

Mark was climbing with shoes he felt were worn out and devoid of sufficient rubber to smear with. In addition, he also felt that, in his haste to protect the crux move, his #1 Friend was a dubious placement, having thought at the time of having doubled it up or originally placing a better piece. (Source: Reed Thorne, Captain—Technical Rescue, Sedona Fire Department)

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