CORNICE COLLAPSE, DESCENDING UNROPED

Yukon Territory, Saint Elias Range, Mount Logan

On April 29,1986, a party of six was descending from 5200 meters on the East Ridge of Mount Logan. They had spent 18 days on the mountain and had climbed the peak. It was cloudy, but visibility was good. About 1600, at an elevation of 3050 meters, they stopped for a break and unroped, since the terrain was becoming easier, and the ridge was relatively wide at that point. Two of the climbers started to descend again, with the others intending to follow after about five minutes. The two were wearing crampons and carrying ice axes, but were still unroped.

The climber in front (22) drifted toward the left (north) side of the ridge. A cornice broke under his feet, and he fell out of sight just centimeters beyond the fracture line. The remaining climbers were able to see him later after continuing farther down the ridge. He had fallen about 600 meters, and there was no indication that he was alive.

They climbed down to the base of the mountain, where two members of the group skied back up the alley to check on the fallen climber. They found that he was dead, and put some of his gear into his pack, which they found nearby. The expedition radio was in base camp, and they reported the accident when they reached it next afternoon. The victim’s body was evacuated by helicopter on May 1. (Source: Lloyd Freese, Kluane National Park, and Max Lautenbacher, Smithers, B.C.)

Analysis

The climbers were aware of the cornice, and could see approximately where it was, but the climber in front somehow wandered a little too far onto it. (Source: Lloyd Freese, Kluane National Park, and Max Lautenbacher, Smithers, B.C.)