FALL ON ICE, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, INEXPERIENCE

British Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Yoho National Park

On December 28,1986, a climber was attempting to lead the first steep pitch on Massey Waterfall. He put in one ice screw part way up the pitch, and then decided to go for the top without putting in more protection. Just when he was going over the top, his crampons kicked out, his ice tools released, and he fell to the bottom. The rope pulled out the one ice screw. After the fall, he was lying unconscious at the bottom of the pitch. He had a fracture of the left humerus and multiple facial cuts but no back injury.

Park wardens were dispatched to the scene by skidoo, and a helicopter was called. The victim was stabilized, then slung out to a waiting ambulance. (Source: Yoho Park Warden Service)