INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, FATIGUE, SLIP ON ICE

British Columbia, Selkirk Mountains, Adamant Glacier

On August 4, 1986, a party of four left camp around 0630 to climb East Blackfriar. It was

nearly 1500 by the time they reached the summit. They returned by approximately the same route by which they had ascended. The second rope team fell behind, and were descending Adamant Glacier when the first rope team reached camp. One member (37) of the second rope team had become tired to the point of nausea on reaching the snout of the glacier around 1930. For about 50 meters, the ice was very slippery, but crampons were not being worn.

The tired climber slipped and broke her ankle. Her companion returned to the camp for help, and a group quickly went up to apply first aid and carry her down to camp. Helicopter evacuation was arranged by radio. (Source: Fred Thiessen and Heather Chow, Kootenay Mountaineering Club)

Analysis

The accident was preventable by wearing crampons. After a long climb on a warm day, the victim was probably very tired and dehydrated and did not have the strength to correct herself when she slipped. She is a very experienced mountaineer. (Source: Fred Thiessen, Kootenay Mountaineering Club)