STRANDED, OFF ROUTE, WEATHER, INEXPERIENCE

Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park

On September 9, 1985, at 0830,1 was told to go up to the Longs Peak Trail to ascertain the location, condition, and, if necessary, to evacuate an overdue climbing party on the East Face of Longs Peak. I departed the Longs Peak Ranger Station at 0845 and arrived at the Chasm Lake Patrol Cabin at 1015. Using the cabin’s binoculars I thoroughly glassed the entire East Face, particularly the Keiners Route where the party was supposed to be, and could not locate them. I assembled the necessary gear to do the climb and search the route for the missing party. They were completely off-route and appeared to be on Joe’s Solo, 100-125 meters above Broadway Ledge. I climbd the Eighth Route and met Kent Montavon (30) and Linda McCoy (30) at 1430 about 175 meters above Broadway Ledge. Both were in good spirits and physical condition, though hungry, thirsty and tired. I then assumed the lead and guided them up the remaining four technical pitches of the route and topped-out at 1630. We descended via the Loft to the Chasm Patrol Cabin where I gave them some hot food before descending to the trailhead. We left the cabin at 1830 and arrived at the Longs Peak Ranger Station at 2000. (Source: Wiliam Westbay, Ranger, Rocky Mountain National Park)

Analysis

Montavon and McCoy in the subsequent interview said they had left the trailhead at 0600 to do the Keiners Route. Montavon said he thought he was ascending the right route until he was unable to pass a headwall. Montavon said both he and McCoy had done 5.7 and a few 5.8 routes in the past. About 1830 they began yelling for help. When asked why they did not try finding an easy way out or retreat the following morning, McCoy said she had thought they were supposed to sit and wait for help to arrive. Montavon did not think they could have descended. (They had one rope and a rack of seven nuts.) Montavon said they would have tried to climb up at 1630 no matter what.

Montavon and McCoy had the technical skills to do Keiners Route or Joe’s Solo, but obviously lacked alpine experience and basic route finding skills. A snowstorm on the summit massif of Longs Peak the day before definitely altered the character of all East Face routes and in this context they were definitely challenging their skills. The other aspect of this incident is that this party did not obtain adequate information about the route and peak conditions. If I had not arrived and they had waited until 1630 to take any action, they would have spent another forced night on the mountain. (Source: William Westbay, Ranger, Rocky Mountain National Park)