FALL ON ROCK, POOR POSITION—IMPROPER SPOTTING

Colorado, Horsetooth Reservoir

On May 28, 1985, Paul Beiser and I (Joe Eyre, 28) were bouldering at Horsetooth Reservoir. I was spotting for Beiser when he fell from two to three meters above me. He landed on my head and I crumpled to the ground. My left foot had been on an outwardly sloping rock, which probably is why I fractured my fibula. (Source: Joe Eyre)

Analysis

Although most climbers gauge their potential for injury while free climbing, soloing and bouldering, my accident proves that you don’t need to leave the ground to get hurt. Spotting another climber requires constant attention and the attitude that the spotter can only direct his/her partner’s fall. The spotter cannot try to catch the climber. Just as everyone practices catching each other while belaying, boulderers should take some time to practice directing others’ falls. The spotter must thrust his/her arms under the armpits of the falling climber. This action stabilizes the falling climber and prevents both climbers from falling backwards during impact. (Source: Joe Eyre)