HAPE, RAPID ASCENT, WEATHER

Alaska, Mount McKinley

The weather on Mt. McKinley during the months of April and May was consistently cold and stormy, which prevented climbing expeditions to move high on the West Buttress route. From May 21-25 there was a five day window of excellent weather where many groups moved high as rapidly as possible, causing four individuals to get HAPE and/or CE which required medical attention. All four of the individuals were seen and/or treated by the Medical Research Group and are listed separately.

Glen Lovelace (26) and his wife Sue took six days to climb from 2100 meters basecamp on the West Buttress route of Mt. McKinley to 5250 meters. The next morning Glen was suffering from a severe headache, muddled thinking and lack of appetite. That morning the pair descended, with Glen experiencing hallucinations while descending to the 4350 meter camp. Upon examination by the physicians, Lovelace was diagnosed as having HAPE and treated with 02 and Diamox before descending under his own power to basecamp.

Edmond Schuster (49) was a member of a 13-man German expedition which took four days to get to 4350 meters from the 2130 meter basecamp on the West Buttress. Once at 4350 meters, Schuster had a headache and difficulty breathing. He went to the Medical Research camp and was diagnosed as having HAPE. Schuster was given some 02 and Diamox which made it possible for him to wait while his party continued on to the summit.

Dr. Jacques Vallet (37) was a member of a four-man French expedition which took four days to get from basecamp to 4350 meters. At 4350 meters Vallet was examined by the Medical Research Group and found to have early signs of HAPE. It was recommended that he not ascend until the fluid in his lungs had cleared. But Vallet continued on to 5250 meters, where he had a headache and difficulty breathing. Vallet had to descend the following day with the help of his expedition members. The team had to retreat to basecamp the following day.

Hidenori Matsumoto was a member of a five-man Japanese expedition which took four days to get from basecamp to 4350 meters on the West Buttress. After the first night at 4350 meters, Matsumoto had a severe headache and could hardly move under his own power in the morning. He was diagnosed as having HAPE and CE by the Medical Research Group and give 02 for the day and slept with 02 that night before being taken down to basecamp the following morning by another climbing expedition. (Source: Scott Gill, Mountaineering Ranger, Denali National Park)

Analysis

A stretch of good weather caused many expeditions to move to higher elevations much too fast. The numbers of climbers getting Acute Mountain Sickness seemed to occur during

this stretch of weather. Ascent rates of 2100 meters in four or five days may leave some individuals feeling fine, but can cause serious illness to others. A slower ascent rate tailored to the individual on the expedition who is having the most difficulty can prevent the onset of serious altitude problems. The general rule of ascending only 300-400 meters per day once above 3000 meters is a good one. (Source: Scott Gill, Mountaineering Ranger, Denali National Park)