STRANDED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT

Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount Louis

On July 11, 1985, two climbers departed early on the normal route. Usual ascent speed was maintained until the climbers moved onto the steeper south face where difficulties increase. From here they moved very slowly, reaching the “panic plateau” at 2230. They bivouacked here and began rappelling down on July 12, since they did not feel they could complete the climb and access the normal descent route on the west side. One pitch above the traverse to easier terrain, they ran out of rappel equipment. They were eventually brought off the mountain by heli-sling and returned to Banff. (Source: Banff Park Warden Service)

Analysis

In this case a more experience climber was guiding a novice, and it turned out that he did not have the resources to get him up or down the mountain properly. They should have tried an easier climb. (Source: Banff Park Warden Service)