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Reported Mountaineering Accidents, Table III

TABLE III



1951-83

1959-83

1984

1984





USA

CAN.

USA

CAN.



Terrain











Rock 

1942

250

136

14



Snow 

1296

219

36

7



Ice 

89

35

7

4



River 

11

3

1

0



Unknown 

12

6

2

0



Ascent or Descent











Ascent 

1642

262

126

7



Descent 

1296

174

52

12



Unknown 

216

34

4

7



Immediate Cause











Fall or slip on rock 

1186

125

98

4



Slip on snow or ice 

501

98

19

3



Falling rock or object 

259

79

20

2



Exceed abilities 

227

24

2

1



Avalanche 

204

84

5

1



Exposure 

158

10

6

0



Stranded 

140

31

1

4



Illness 

128

12

0

0



Failure of rappel 

127

14

3

1



Loss of control—voluntary glissade 

111

10

7

0



Fall into crevasse/moat 

85

24

3

2



Piton pulled out 

66

12

1

0



Failure to follow route 

52

11

7

3



Faulty use of crampons 

35

3

2

0



Lightning 

33

3

1

0



Skiing 

26

5

1

1



Nut/chock pulled out 

18

1

0

1



Equipment failure 

4

1

0

0



Ascending too fast 

*

*

2

0



Other1 

31

7

6

1



Unknown 

38

5

3

2



Contributory Causes











Climbing unroped 

665

83

17

6



Exceeding abilities 

652

100

16

8



Inadequate equipment 

359

42

18

1



Climbing alone 

209

30

6

0



Weather 

207

17

10

4



Placed no/inadequate protection 

98

16

27

0



Darkness 

78

9

1

0



No hard hat 

76

8

2

1



Piton pulled out 

72

8

1

0



Party separated 

61

10

2

1



Nut/chock pulled out 

56

3

5

0



Exposure 

38

9

1

0



Failure to test holds 

21

6

10

0



Equipment failure 

2

1

1

0



Inadequate belay 

*



5

0





*

*

6

0



Failed to follow directions 

*

*

4

0





1951-83

1959-83

1984

1984





USA

CAN.

USA

CAN.



Poor position 

*

*

6

0



Other2 

63

16

12

5



Age of Individuals



Under 15 

91

11

0

0



15-20 

936

166

25

3



21-25 

881

174

57

8



26-30 

487

118

44

8



31-35 

246

54

19

4



36-50 

322

66

35

2



Over 50 

41

7

9

1



Unknown 

545

183

11

37



Estimate of Experience



None or little 

1170

169

27

15



Moderate 

866

189

38

14



Experienced 

633

193

56

19



Unknown 

650

168

67

15



Month of Year



January 

119

6

3

0



February 

120

28

6

1



March 

169

26

1

2



April 

173

13

10

2



May 

328

28

29

1



June 

483

27

24

2



July 



141

28

6



August 

522

150

34

11



September 

832

25

27

1



October 

179

23

16

0



November 

99

3

3

0



December 

29

7

1

0



Type of Injury/Illness



Fracture 

*

*

56





Bruise 

*

*

22





Abrasion 

*

*

17





Laceration 

*

*

19





Sprain/strain 

*

*

17





Concussion 

*

*

8





Puncture 

*

*

4





Frostbite 

*

*

6





HAPE 

*

*

2





CE 

*

*

0





Hypothermia 

*

*

2





Other 

*

*

15





'These include: a) failing to rewarm toes, b) eating Amanita mushrooms, c) hand pinned on rappel, d) rappel off end of rope (2), e) bat bite, f) dislocated shoulder. “These include: a) dehydration and chewing tobacco (vaso-constrictor), b) off route, c) drunk, d) fatigue, e) fainting—which was brought on by a recent long distance run, e) hit finger with piton hammer, f) wet rock.

(Editor’s note: The category “Affiliation With Climbing Groups”has become meaningless because it has proven to be just about an even split over the years, with a remaining one third being unidentifiable. Its elimination makes room for the new category, “Type of Injury/Illness.”)