American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Stranded, Dehydration, Severe Nose Bleed, Climbing Alone — California, Yosemite Valley

  • Accident Reports
  • Accident Year:
  • Publication Year: 1985

STRANDED, DEHYDRATION, SEVERE NOSE BLEED, CLIMBING ALONE

California, Yosemite Valley

On June 25, 1984, Paul Truecki (19) was rescued from the west face of Leaning Tower. He suffered a severe nose bleed and subsequent heavy loss of blood that left him unconscious for an unknown length of time.

He had started the climb on the morning of June 24, stopping at 1430 because of the heat. He consumed three liters of water and half a package of fig newtons that day. Early the next morning, while the route was in the shade, he did two pitches, returned to his bivy ledge, and finished his remaining water—about half a cup. He tossed off his haul bag and started climbing for the top. He felt weak on the next pitch and assumed he was dehydrated. He rappelled to clean the pitch, and while at the belay, he blew his nose. This started a massive nose bleed which was difficult to stop. He became disoriented and probably unconscious for short periods. When he noticed he was making mistakes in setting up a safe belay, he yelled for help.

Rangers Dill, Jackson and Hargis lowered him off. (Source. John Dill, SAR Ranger, Yosemite National Park)

Analysis

In addition to little water intake, Truecki had a history of nose bleeding problems. He has to have his nose cauterized every two years or so. (Source: John Dill, SAR Ranger, Yosemite National Park)

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