FALL ON SNOW/ICE, FAILURE TO SELF-ARREST, INADEQUATE PROTECTION Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Aberdeen Glacier

On the sunny, warm morning of July 19, 1984, two climbers were descending the lower Aberdeen Glacier. They were equipped with gear for climbing, glacial travel, and bivouacking. The glacier was icy and steep. At 0900, the lower climber (24) fell and pulled the other one down toward him. The upper climber fell onto the extended feet and crampons of the lower one. He ended up with puncture wounds on his upper arm and head and a dislocated shoulder. They tried to walk the five kilometers back to the parking lot, but it proved to be too painful. At the talus slope below the glacier tongue, the unhurt climber bandaged the other one and went for help. He found a hiker one-third of the way up Mount Fairview, whom he asked to descend and report to the warden’s office in Lake Louise, and then returned to his climbing companion. The wardens evacuated the injured climber by helicopter about noon. (Source: Banff Park Warden Service)

Analysis

The accident involved climbers of intermediate experience on a route considered to be of intermediate difficulty. A successful self-arrest by either climber would have prevented the injuries. An ice screw would have provided more security. (Source: Banff Park Warden Service)