FALL ON SNOW OR ICE, CLIMBING ALONE

Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount Bowlen

On July 4, 1983, a call was received by the Lake Louise Warden Office to report that a friend of the caller was overdue from a solo climbing trip in the Moraine Lake area. A subsequent search found the climber’s body at the bottom of the 3-3 ½ Couloir. The reason for his fall is unknown, but wet snow over ice or rockfall may have been a contributing cause. The victim had been climbing for several years, had made numerous solo ascents, and was well equipped for the climb. (Source: Clair Israel- son, Banff National Park)

Analysis

This was the fifth fatality in as many years on this particular route with twice that number of accidents. This makes it by far the most consistently dangerous route in the Canadian Rockies. Highly visible from Moraine Lake, the snow and ice couloir was a popular route to the old Graham Cooper Hut. (This hut was removed in 1983 following construction of the Neil Colgan Hut at the Bowlen-Little col.)

With good conditions the route is viable, but safety depends on speed and judgement. Subtle changes of the incline entice many climbers to use unsuitable equipment or techniques higher in the couloir. Sweeping up at a modest 33 degrees at 2100 meters, the slope reaches 40 degrees at 2360 meters, 44 degrees at 2500 meters, then just over 50 degrees at 2700 meters. By mid summer the last few pitches are normally ice. Objective hazards include frequent rock fall and wet snow avalanches.

Case histories show a variety of subjective and objective causes of accidents, with no single cause predominating. Given the rate of accidents for this particular route, it is very difficult to recommend it with a clear conscience except under ideal conditions. The nearby Perren route provides a much safer alternative to the icefields and hut site. Information about conditions and access via the Perren route should be obtained from Park Officers prior to climbing in this area. (Source: Clair Israelson, Banff National Park)