Reported Mountaineering Accidents, Table III
TABLE III
1951-82 1959-82 USA CAN.
1983 1983 USA CAN.
Terrain
Rock
1835
107
Snow
1221
75
Ice
79
10
10
1
Unknown
10
2
Ascent or Descent:
Ascent
1523
119
Descent
1177
73
Unknown
211
5
Immediate Cause
Fall or slip on rock
1108
78
Slip on snow or ice
457
44
Falling rock or object
244
15
Exceed abilities
219
8
Avalanche
198
6
Exposure and/or exhaustion
156
2
Stranded
138
2
Failure of rappel1
121
6
Illness including edema/frostbite2
118
10
Loss of control—voluntary glissade
103
8
Fall into crevasse/moat
77
8
Failure of piton
66
0
Failure to follow route
48
4
33
0
Faulty use of crampons
32
3
Failure of nut
17
1
Skiing
17
9
Heat prostration
4
3
Prusik/ascending device failure
4
0
26
5
Unknown
34
4
Contributory Causes
Climbing unroped
633
32
Exceeding abilities
602
50
Inadequate equipment
329
30
Climbing alone
193
16
Weather
193
14
Darkness
74
4
Failure of piton
68
4
Party separated
58
3
No hard hat
60
16
Placed no/inadequate protection
67
31
Failure of nut
40
16
Exposure and/or exhaustion
34
4
Failure to test holds
19
2
Old rope
8
0
Waist/harness failure
2
0
Other4
52
11
Age of Individuals
Under 15
89
3
15-20
905
31
21-25
840
41
26-30
441
46
31-35
225
21
36-50
292
30
Over 50
31
10
Unknown
519
26
Affiliation with Climbing Groups
Unaffiliated
1003
62
Affiliated
900
46
Unknown
1062
79
Estimate of Experience
None or little
1121
49
Moderate
820
44
Experienced
577
56
Unknown
593
57
Month of Year
January
110
9
February
111
9
March
161
8
April
163
10
May
305
23
June
456
27
July
553
38
August
496
26
September
293
17
October
165
14
November
97
2
December
25
4
These include: a) a snow fluke coming out, b) using only one anchor point around loose blocks, c) no belay, d) no prusik sling backup.
Five of these were HAPE, three were frostbite, and one was a heart attack.
These include: a) a fall through the ice into a river, b) a fall through a moat into a river, c) a belay ledge collapse, d) improperly placed Friend, and e) a metal splinter in the eye while driving an old piton.
These include: a) slack rope while crossing a bergschrund, b) failure to check feet and rewarm, c) drinking, d) communication problems, e) jumars coming off the rope, f) climbers triggering an avalanche, g) belay failure because of sweaty hands, and h) belayer asleep.
Editors Note: The numbers found under the categories “Ascent or Descent,” “Affiliation with Climbing Groups,” and “Month of the Year” reflect the actual number of accidents reported.