American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Fall on Rock, Inadequate Tie-In, New York, Shawangunks

  • Accident Reports
  • Accident Year:
  • Publication Year: 1984

FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE TIE-IN

New York, Shawangunks

On June 2, 1982, a man (32) was following on the first pitch of City Lights (5.7) when he fell. His rope undipped, so his total fall was 18 meters. He died at Vassar Hospital. (Source: Brad Snyder)

Analysis

The climber had clipped into the rope with only one nonlocking carabiner. Either a locking carabiner or opposing the gates of two nonlocking carabiners is recommended. Better yet, tie the rope in directly to the harness/swami. (Source: J. Williamson)

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