PULMONARY EDEMA, CEREBRAL EDEMA, SLIP ON SNOW,

DESCENDING UNROPED

Alaska, Mount Foraker

Glen Randall (26) and Pete Metcalf flew into Kantishna on April 17, 1983, to begin their approach to the North Face of Mount Foraker. Their intended route would take them over the summit and down the Southeast Ridge to the Kahiltna Glacier.

By the ninth day of their trip, they had placed their first camp at 2100 meters on the mountain. Over the next three days they progressed rapidly, camping at 3450 meters, 4140 meters, and reaching high camp at 4650 meters on April 29. They both felt the effects of altitude due to the rapid ascent, so they stayed at 4650 meters on April 30 to acclimatize. Early on the morning of May 1, Randall awoke to discover he had symptoms of HAPE (rales and coughing up bloody sputum). According to Metcalf, Randall felt they couldn’t go down from their position. Randall said, “I want to go up; we must go now.” In making this decision, Randall assumed he could traverse over the 5220-meter summit before becoming debilitated by HAPE. They departed camp unroped at 0300 using headlamps in calm conditions. Randall’s pace was extremely slow, and he was taking six breaths per step. Metcalf relayed Randall’s pack up to 5000 meters, where he felt he couldn’t provide any more assistance due to a bad headache. Metcalf discussed the situation with Randall and the possibility of descending the Northwest Ridge to a lower campsite to acclimatize better. Randall insisted on continuing, as they only had three days of food, which left the option to wait as “too much of a risk.”

They continued to the summit, with Metcalf arriving on top at 1430 and Randall arriving approximately 45 minutes later. After a short break on top, Randall seemed to improve and mentioned he could make it down okay. They began their descent of the Southeast Ridge unroped and Metcalf quickly outdistanced Randall on the 30-degree névé snow. At 4800 meters, Metcalf waited for Randall, who upon arriving, showed signs of extreme exhaustion and commented that he couldn’t go any farther. Metcalf noticed a place to camp 300 meters lower and Randall commented, “I’ll make it down.” Metcalf told Randall to shout if he had any problems. Metcalf felt stronger and descended to a campsite in ten minutes. Waiting at this site, Metcalf fell asleep for five minutes and, upon awakening, observed that Randall had disappeared. Metcalf continued back up the ridge, attempting to make voice contact. He made several trips back and forth along the ridge until he discovered a small hole where Randall’s crampon tracks vanished. He realized that Randall had fallen off the 2400-meter East Face but continued in his effort to make voice contact.

As Randall slowly descended, he stepped into a covered hole, twisting his knee. With his leg in this small crevasse, he anchored himself with his ax and removed his pack, anchoring it to his ax which was tied into his harness. As he extracted his leg from the hole, he lost his balance and began to slide on his back, head first, popping his anchored ax. He was unable to arrest on the 30-degree slope. He slid 360 meters (120 vertical meters), coming to rest in soft snow after falling over a 36-meter ice wall. Randall stopped short of falling all the way off the East Face.

With no sign of Randall on the slopes below, Metcalf decided he must attempt to descend alone to the Southeast Ridge. He assumed that Randall was dead. Ninety minutes had transpired since he had last seen Randall. Metcalf began to descend, and after several minutes he caught a glimpse of Randall toward the north. He descended to him. Randall had been making slow progress back toward the ridge, as he had sustained multiple bruises and a fractured knee in the fall. At 1800 they established camp at this 4680-meter location. Overnight and through May 2, Randall’s HAPE and symptoms of cerebral edema increased. He had coughing spasms of blood, persistent nosebleeds, and experienced a loss of orientation overnight.

They were not carrying a radio, so assistance would not be attempted until after their due date of May 1. Arrangements had been made with the Park Service to lay out an X in the snow if they had an emergency situation.

For the next several days the weather remained poor (light wind and snow) with occluded visibility. Randall’s condition remained unchanged. By May 4, he began to show a marked improvement.

Metcalf felt that once Randall could manage by himself, he could leave and descend for help. It was imperative that something be done since they were out of food. In 1982, they had both climbed the Southeast Ridge, and Metcalf felt he could get down in two days of careful climbing.

During the day of May 4, Jim Okonek of K2 Aviation made a search along the ridge. Due to intermittent clouds, he was unable to see anyone, but Metcalf thought he was observed and decided to wait another day before descending. On May 5, at 0900, Okonek and Ranger Jon Waterman spotted the pair and noticed an X laid out next to their tent. The weather was favorable for a rescue, so pilot Jim Porter from Evergreen Helicopters was contracted for the pickup. At 0940, Okonek and Waterman attempted several drops of food, fuel and a radio. These were made in the event the helicopter was delayed or unable to make the pickup. Okonek and Waterman returned to Talkeetna. At 1035 the helicopter (Alouette III) departed Talkeetna with Porter and Waterman. Ranger Roger Robinson departed shortly before with Okonek to fly cover. At 1230, the helicopter successfully made the pickup and returned to Talkeetna at 1310. Randall was taken to Providence Hospital in Anchorage where he was diagnosed as having HAPE, cerebral edema, pneumonia and a fractured right knee.

Analysis

Dr. Peter Hackett, who examined Randall in Talkeetna, stated that, “Because of the lack of oxygen to his brain, his coordination, judgment and reflexes were impaired. This undoubtedly contributed to his accident.”

Metcalf and Randall have a long record of ascents in the Alaska Range, but this was Randall’s first experience with HAPE and cerebral edema. Their route went much faster than anticipated, resulting in a quick rate of ascent, the main cause of Randall’s sickness.

One can only speculate as to the reasoning for their not being roped on the descent. (Source: Roger Robinson, Mountaineering Ranger, Denli National Park)