FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE OF “FRIEND”

New York, Shawangunks

A man (24) was seconding on Never Never Land (5.10) when he fell and fractured his fibula. The ten-meter fall resulted from the fact that a Friend placed directionally pulled out. (Source: Brad Snyder)

Analysis

There have been several reports of Friends pulling out and also breaking. (See Accidents in North American Mountaineering 1982, pp. 44-45.) The former is usually because of improper placement (not necessarily the case here), exacerbated in the latter case by as much as a 90-degree strain on the stem when a fall occurs. (Source: J. Williamson)