American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Fall on Rock, Failure of "Friend" — New York, Shawangunks

  • Accident Reports
  • Accident Year:
  • Publication Year: 1983


New York, Shawangunks

A man (24) was seconding on Never Never Land (5.10) when he fell and fractured his fibula. The ten-meter fall resulted from the fact that a Friend placed directionally pulled out. (Source: Brad Snyder)


There have been several reports of Friends pulling out and also breaking. (See Accidents in North American Mountaineering 1982, pp. 44-45.) The former is usually because of improper placement (not necessarily the case here), exacerbated in the latter case by as much as a 90-degree strain on the stem when a fall occurs. (Source: J. Williamson)

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