American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Failure of Nut, Fall on Rock, Inadequate Belay — California, Yosemite Valley

  • Accident Reports
  • Accident Year:
  • Publication Year: 1983


California, Yosemite Valley

In early October 1982, two climbers were on Pancake Flake when the following incident occurred. The leader placed one piece for aid, then a second. He took out the first and was standing in the second, while making a third placement, when the second one pulled out. It was about three meters above the belayer. The leader fell, hit the belayer and continued on. About one meter down, the belayer was pulled off belay. Their injuries included a fractured foot but they climbed out on their own. (Source: John Dill, SAR Ranger, Yosemite National Park)


The belayer’s tie-in was slack and he had not clipped the lead rope through anything at the anchor. The belay device was a figure eight. (Source. John Dill, SAR Ranger, Yosemite National Park)

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