FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE FOOD AND EQUIPMENT California, Yosemite Valley

On September 29, 1982, two climbers (22 and 21) called for help from the Iron Hawk route on El Capitan. An assessment of the situation revealed that one of them had injured his neck in a leader fall and that they had been out of food for three days. They were about 260 meters from the top.

A rescue team was dispatched and, by 1300 on September 30, Ranger Dan Dallinges was lowered about 260 meters. Several directionals were clipped in to minimize the distance from the wall. The final distance from the rescue site was approximately 10 meters. Dallinges was able to throw a length of 9 mm rope from above. After several attempts, O’Connell caught the line and secured it. Dallinges was then pulled into the wall and secured at the anchor points there.

After a short breather, Dallinges contacted LMH with an update on the neck injury and placed a C-collar. After dumping all the unnecessary equipment, Dallinges and the climbers detached, swung away from the wall and were then raised to the top. The load weight was approximately 700 pounds and the raising operation took approximately 1½ hours. At the top, the climbers were given some food; the group then hiked to the summit where all but two persons (who were left to guard the rescue equipment) were flown to the valley floor.

At the hospital, the injured climber refused treatment when he discovered that he would be responsible for payment. (Source: Dan Dallinges, Ranger, Yosemite National Park)

Analysis

This represents the other end of the spectrum from the previous accident and analysis. Quoting from the Case Incident Report: “After much consultation and extensive critique of the circumstances leading to the rescue, it was decided to issue (the two climbers) citations of $25 each for creating a hazardous condition by failing to properly equip and plan.” (Source: J. Williamson and Yosemite National Park)