FALL ON ROCK, PLACED NO PROTECTION, INADEQUATE BELAY, BAD WEATHER, INEXPERIENCE

California, Mount Whitney

On July 14, George Evans (43) and Bill Smith (40) were climbing the East Face of Mount Whitney, moving slowly, when the weather started to look threatening. There was some lightning and hail, but it only lasted a short time. However, according to Smith, it worried Evans considerably and he appeared very anxious as he started to lead the Fresh-Air traverse. The ledge just before this pitch is large and the belay was set at least 12 meters away from the actual start of the pitch. Evans walked across the ledge, started climbing and fell before placing any protection. He bounced and pendulumed against the vertical face, 15 meters below the ledge. He never regained consciousness after impact. (Source: Al Green, China Lake Mountain Rescue Group)

Analysis

The amount and kind of gear being carried for this route indicated unfamiliarity and concern for what might be encountered. The beginning of the Fresh-Air traverse is particularly confusing and has resulted in at least one previous rescue.

The picture by Jim Erb in Summit (May-June 1982, p. 28) warrants study by any climber planning this route for the first time. The best belay spot is near the bottom right of the picture, below the V-shaped broken chute. Also, the picture in Fifty Classic Climbs of North America by Steve Roper and Allen Steck (p. 281) shows this route clearly.

A common factor contributing to accidents on Mount Whitney can also be seen here. A good rock climber on boulders or low cliffs tries a multipitch, high-altitude climb of fairly low technical difficulty. Altitude, weather, and endurance lead to difficulties not experienced at places like Stoney Point or the Shawangunks. Recent labeling of the East Face as a “classic climb” is apt to lead to more such problems. The climb is long and there is great exposure; if one is out of practice or not used to such conditions, the difficulties can easily be compounded. (Source: Carl Heller and Dennis Burge, China Lake Mountain Rescue Group)