STRANDED, BAD WEATHER, HYPOTHERMIA

California, Yosemite Valley

On June 29, 1982, about 0915, visiting rock climber Doug Furrier reported to Valley District Rangers that he had just heard cries for help coming from The Nose on El Capitan. Rangers Mike Mayer and Mike Quick and SAR Officer Mike Durr drove to El Capitan Meadow to investigate. Although it was raining steadily and clouds frequently blocked their view, by using a telescope and PA, they were able to spot and communicate with two climbers who were retreating from the “Gray Bands” area of The Nose. For the next several hours, Mayer, Quick and Durr advised the climbers on details of the rappel route and also on strategy. Helped by clearing weather and, finally, by nearby climbers, the two made it down safely before dark. (Source: Mike Mayer, Ranger, Yosemite National Park)

Analysis

These climbers had about three years of experience, including one or more walks. They were equipped with wool hats, down and pile jackets and Gore-Tex raincoats. One climber wore wool pants and the other cotton. They had no hammer or bolt kit. After a full night of rain, with no sign that the storm would let up, they decided to retreat. They became cold when they started to move. They yelled for help because of their concern about their condition, the weather, the distance (13–15 rappels) and their lack of knowledge regarding the descent route. (Source: Mike Mayer, Ranger, Yosemite National Park)