FALL ON ROCK

California, Yosemite Valley

On May 26, 1982 John Rahhal (22) broke a tibia and fibula when he fell from a climb called “Doggie Deviation” in Camp IV. He was 15–16 meters off the ground when his foot slipped out of a crack. He fell about three meters before his belayer caught him and lowered him to the ground. (Source: Ken Kehrer, Jr., Ranger, Yosemite National Park)

Analysis

Falling while leading a new and/or difficult pitch is not unusual. Injuries from such falls are usually not serious when experienced climbers, who place protection and belays thoughtfully, are involved. Sometimes, as in this case, serious injuries do occur, even though precautions have been taken. Without such precautions, the potential for more serious injury is obvious. In Camp IV, there are many practice climbs that climbers frequently attempt unbelayed. Many more falls occur here than are reported. This is because there is usually no injury and also because, even when an injury does occur, the climber does not report it. In order to get a better idea of how many such accidents happen, Yosemite rangers are now interviewing climbers regularly. (Source: J. Williamson)