FALLING ROCK, FALL ON ROCK

Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Cascade Mountain

A party of four rock-climbing instructors from the Vernon Army Cadet Camp, who were training in Banff, were climbing a rock buttress above the Banff Army Cadet Camp on June 26, 1982, their day off. They were wearing light clothing, including T-shirts and shorts.

Near the top of the moderate route, the man seconding the lead rope was nearing the final belay when a large block he was standing on broke away and fell on the leader of the second rope. This man fell ten meters before being caught by his protection. He ended up hanging head downwards and was unconscious for several minutes before being reached. Despite his helmet, he suffered a concussion as well as cuts and abrasions. The injuries were partly caused by the falling rock and partly by the fall.

The accident was witnessed by staff at the Cadet Camp who reported it to the Banff Warden Office. (Source: T. Auger and T. Davidson, Banff National Park)

Analysis

The victim was using a Whillans Sit Harness. Harnesses of this type, when used alone, do not prevent the climber from hanging upside down and increase the danger of head injuries in a fall. It is safer to use either a full body harness or a seat and chest harness combination.

More adequate clothing would have reduced the number of cuts and abrasions. The size of the party should also be a consideration when climbing in an area with a large amount of loose rock. (Source: T. Auger and T. Davidson, Banff National Park)