American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing
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Fall on Rock, Equipment Failure, New York, Shawangunks

  • Accident Reports
  • Accident Year:
  • Publication Year: 1982


New York, Shawangunks

John Mallory was climbing Transcontinental Nailway (5.10) when he took a 30-foot fall. He had placed a #1 and #2 Friend for protection, but the force of the fall caused the posts—and consequently the wires—on the Friends to break. (Source: J. Williamson from a discussion with Rick Wilcox and Bill Kane of International Mountain Equipment)


The posts on Friends have holes drilled into them to reduce their weight. In terms of structural stress, the posts broke at the most likely point. However, the force exerted on them was great and was at almost a right angle. (Source: J. Williamson)

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