American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, California, Toulumne Meadows

  • Accident Reports
  • Accident Year:
  • Publication Year: 1982

FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION

California, Toulumne Meadows

According to James Hobdy’s climbing partner, Paul McCandless, Hobdy (27) was free climbing the Deimos Route on Polly Dome on August 9, 1981. He had placed two anchor pieces in a crack for protection. McCandless saw Hobdy slip and fall and began to pull in his belay rope to stop the fall. McCandless said he actually moved out of his belay station or Hobdy would have fallen on him. The two nuts Hobdy had placed pulled out and Hobdy hit the ledge on his thigh and back. He fell about 60 feet.

According to McCandless, Hobdy had been climbing for about four years and could lead at 5.8. The route he was climbing is rated 5.8 but locals say it should actually be rated 5.9 or 5.10. (Source: Thomas Habacker, Ranger, Yosemite National Park)

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