FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE OF PITON, CLIMBING ALONE

Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount Alberta

Tobin Sorenson (25) was attempting to climb the north face of Mount Alberta alone. He started on October 3, 1980; his last diary entry was 9:15 p.m. on October 4. By this time, he had made it above the ice onto the rock face. He fell some time on October 5.

He was using figure-eight knots every ten feet on his rope for self-belay. A piton and carabiner were attached to one of the loops. He must have fallen into the belay piton which then pulled, because the knot was tight and could not be opened, while all the other knots were normal.

A search was started when Sorenson did not return on the date indicated on his registration—October 7 at 7:00 p.m. Although his camp was located at 3:00 p.m. on October 8, the helicopter was stranded at the 9,600-foot level for three and a half hours because of storms. At 8:30 a.m. on October 9 the search was resumed; the body was located on the glacier at the base of the north face around 10:00 a.m. The rescue was completed by 1:00 p.m. (Source: D. A. Dumpleton, Jasper National Park)

Analysis

Sorenson had climbed a number of extremely difficult mountains, including a solo winter ascent of Mount Robson, the north face of the Matterhorn, the Eiger north face, the north face of Mount Kitchener, and many more. As his diary indicated that he had difficulty most of the way, he may have underestimated the mountain. (Source: D. A. Dumpleton, Jasper National Park)