American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Fall on Rock, Falling Rock, Severed Rope, Wyoming, Tetons

  • Accident Reports
  • Accident Year:
  • Publication Year: 1981


Wyoming, Tetons

On August 19, 1980, Glen Milner (33), an experienced mountain guide, was leading John Alexander (44) up the west ridge route (F5) on Teepe’s Pillar. The weather was cloudy and

windy with the temperature near freezing.

At the time of the accident, Alexander was anchored at the bottom of the route and was belaying Milner on the first pitch. Apparently, Milner either pulled loose some rocks or was struck by rockfall from above, which severed his climbing rope and caused him to fall 500 feet

down the south couloir of Teepe’s Pillar.

Alexander went for help and one hour later reached Ranger Shackelton, who radioed Jenny Lake Ranger Station. Rescuers were flown by helicopter to the area and began searching for Milner. At 3:40 p.m., they found his body in the south couloir. The rescue team evacuated the body to a site 1,000 feet lower on the mountainside. At 7:44 p.m., the contract helicopter flew the body to Lupine Meadows Rescue Cache. (Source: Craig Patterson, Grand Teton National Park)

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