FALL ON ROCK, FAULTY USE OF EQUIPMENT, INEXPERIENCE

New York, Shawangunks

On June 21, a female climber (21) was being top roped on Squiggles when she fell. The problem was that rather than clipping a carabiner onto the knotted loop at the end of the climbing rope, she clipped it directly onto the rope. When she fell, the carabiner slid down the rope and the knot pulled through the carabiner. The fall to the ground resulted in a possible broken back. (Source: Brad Snyder)

Analysis

Some climbing schools have used the technique of having students clip in from their harness to a pretied loop on the climbing rope. The idea behind this method has been that it is a foolproof one. However, this is not the first case where the climber has made a mistake such as the one reported, even when the guide or belayer could see the climber. Unless an experienced person is watching from close by (or is the climber), tying the climbing rope directly to the harness or around the waist is a safer practice. When it is not possible for the experienced climber or guide to see the neophyte climber, it is advised that the neophyte be tied in before leaving him. (Source: J. Williamson)