RAPPEL FAILURE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT

California, Yosemite Valley

On February 29, 1980, James Waugh (28) and John Dargis (31) were climbing The Nose of El Capitan when Waugh fell, injuring his finger. They decided to rappel down. Waugh went first and about halfway down the rappel, at the bottom of the Stoveleg Crack, he placed a nut, sling, and carabiner to stablize the ropes in the high wind. He then rappelled another 60 feet to some bolts on the face. Dargis followed. As Dargis reached the nut, 60 feet above Waugh, his shirt got caught in his rappel rig. He elected to cut the shirt tail clear. With one swipe of his knife, he cut completely through both rappel ropes just above his figure eight ring. Moments before, he had transferred the sling on the nut to his harness, which held his fall. He soon realized that the nut was placed behind an expanding flake. The ropes above him had now blown away in the wind. He was able to haul up more nuts from Waugh and improve his anchor somewhat. Their remaining rope was too short to continue the rappel. After considering a couple of options, they elected to make two pendulums to Sickle Ledge where there were fixed lines to the ground. (Source: Hal Grovert, SAR Officer, Yosemite National Park)

Analysis

If a prusik sling had been used as a back-up, as is the general practice on rappels, Dargis could have freed his shirt without having to do all the other things. Also, it is a good practice to carry a few bolts and pitons for extricating yourself from unexpected situations. (Source: Hal Grovert, SAR Officer, Yosemite National Park)