ALTITUDE SICKNESS

Alaska, Mt. McKinley

Konrad Schumann (45), a member of the Stroebel Expedition from Germany, was evacuated from 12,800 feet on the West Buttress of Mt. McKinley on June 1, 1980.

The group had initially planned a quick ascent of the Cassin Ridge but a week of bad weather prior to their flight in had shortened an already tight schedule, and they changed their route to the West Buttress.

They flew in to base camp on May 27 and left immediately, heading up the Kahiltna Glacier. They arrived at the 14,200-foot camp on either May 30 or May 31—a fast ascent.

Schumann was sick the night of May 31. He became worse the next day and began to spit blood that evening. The party then began to descend.

At 6:10 p.m., National Park Service Mountaineering Ranger Gerhard received a call fromanother German party on the mountain via Radio Anchorage. They reported that Schumann was at Windy Corner and was being moved down to the 12,800-foot camp site. He had received a 29 mg injection of Lasix earlier but was not improving.

At 6:28 p.m., the Park Service received a call requesting a helicopter evacuation. Akland Helicopters in Talkeetna was contacted. Pilot Jim Okonek and a Bell 206 were readied for the evacuation.

The pickup was made at 12,800 feet at 7:45 p.m. Okonek felt that of his many pickups on the mountain over the years, Schumann was one of the sickest he had seen. However, his recovery on the helicopter descent to Talkeetna was dramatic. Although semiconscious less than an hour earlier, he could walk off the helicopter. He was very weak but declined further medical treatment. (Source: David Buchanan, Park Ranger, Denali National Park)

Analysis

Among the many cases of altitude problems this year, this one—probably pulmonary edema—illustrates that rapid ascent can affect even the experienced climber. (Source: J. Williamson)