RAPPEL FAILURE

Northwest Territories, Baffin Island, Mt. Thor

On June 8, 1979, a party of seven Japanese climbers from the Shimizu Rock Climbing Club were attempting the west face of Mt. Thor. W. Yamazaki was working alone retrieving fixed ropes and had four ropes on his person. He had set up a rappel with a sling through three bolts when he fell 150 meters to his death.

The anchor point was subsequently checked and the bolts were in perfect order. No main ropes, including the rappel rope, were damaged. The sling was not recovered. (Source: P. Rousseau, Auyuittuq National Park)

Analysis

It would seem that an improper hook-up or sling failure could have been the only possible cause of the accident. It may be that the bulk of the ropes he was carrying interfered with his view of the hook-up.

Removal of the body to Pangnirtung by a five-man recovery party with assistance from the remaining members of the Japanese climbing party took an arduous 54 hours (both ways), with 38 miles covered by skidoo and komatik, and 28 miles covered by foot and mountain rescue stretcher. This illustrates the limited rescue potential in this isolated area where no helicopter or rescue aircraft are available or equipped for this function. (Source: P. Rousseau, Auyuittuq National Park)