American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Slip on Ice, Placed No Protection, Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mt. Olympus (Fryatt Valey)

  • Accident Reports
  • Accident Year:
  • Publication Year: 1981


Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mt. Olympus (Fryatt Valley)

On August 12, 1979, an Outward Bound expedition of eight young climbers (15 to 18 years of age), led by Tim Sales, was climbing an ice col on Mt. Olympus. A rope of four people led by a more experienced member was involved in the mishap. The second man on the rope slipped and started sliding down the ice. Herzfeld received a compound fracture of the lower leg, and Lisa Lundal broke her wrist attempting to self arrest. The other two climbers received no injuries. This expedition was the first exposure to mountaineering for most of the group. (Source: D. A. Dumpleton, Jasper National Park)


It is not known how steep the ice slope was, but in general, it is not a good idea to move together roped on an ice slope where an ice ax arrest may not work. (Source: R. Reader)

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