RAPPEL FAILURE, PITON FAILURE

Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Lyell Group

Stuart Price and three companions were returning to camp on 2 August 1979 after practising crevasse rescue on a stormy day. Price and a companion started up a rock gully but decided it was too difficult. Price placed a piton between two large blocks and rappelled down. When he was about 20 feet from the bottom, the piton came out and he fell onto snow and sprained his ankle. (Source: Jo-Ann Creore, leader of the party)

Analysis

At least two anchors should be used on such rotten rock. If two are not possible, as on this route, the route should be downclimbed. (Source: Jo-Ann Creore)