American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Fall on Rock, Piton/Nut Failure, Albert, Rocky Mountains, Mt. Louis

  • Accident Reports
  • Accident Year:
  • Publication Year: 1980

FALL ON ROCK, PITON/NUT FAILURE

Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mt. Louis

Claude Puguay and Daniel Parent, both experienced rock climbers, were climbing Mt. Louis on 9 July 1979. Thinking they were on the standard route, which starts up the east face, they began climbing a gully on the south face. About 600 feet up they tried to break left out of the gully, following their recollections of the description of the standard route. Puguay led up steep rock and fell when a hold broke. His protection pulled, and he fell 50-60 feet. He bruised his ribs painfully, and was rescued by helicopter. (Source: T. Auger)

Analysis

Both men were trained rock climbing instructors, but climbing a rock peak in the Rockies was new to them. It is not known whether the protection placement was a piton or a nut. (Source: T. Auger)

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