American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Cornice Collapse, Yukon Territory, St. Elias Range, Mt. Logan

  • Accident Reports
  • Accident Year:
  • Publication Year: 1980

CORNICE COLLAPSE

Yukon Territory, St. Elias Range, Mt. Logan

Matthew Maytag, Dale Sturtz, Robert Donahoe, John Woodland, Andrew Campbell, and David Conley were setting up Camp V on the Warbler Ridge of Mt. Logan at 2130 hours on 7 July 1978. The cornice collapsed and took with it Sturtz, Maytag and Donohoe, and their tent, most of their gear, and the second tent. Donahoe landed on a snow-covered outcrop and suffered only a sprained or fractured ankle. Maytag and Sturtz were not seen again and must have been killed. During the rescue of Donahoe, Campbell fell and pulled Donohoe off, causing him to lacerate his leg with his own ice axe. The survivors managed to reach Camp IV, where there was a snow cave, and retrieved some cached rations. Eventually, they reached base camp and were flown out on 29 July. (Source: Chip Woodland, C.A.J., 62:81 [1979])

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