FALL ON ICE, PLACED NO PROTECTION, RAPPEL FAILURE

New Hampshire, Whitehorse Ledge

On January 31, Clin Cummins (21) was leading the second pitch of a vertical icicle which then ascends 80 feet up a slab of 60-degree ice. He fell 200 feet to the base of the cliff and was injured seriously. While the rescue was being accomplished, John Imbare (20) climbed the first pitch to clean the route of gear. While rappelling, the rappel anchor failed, and he fell 100 feet to the base of the cliff, missing the rescue team by just ten feet, then continued 150 feet into the woods, missing all trees. He suffered only cuts and bruises and was able to walk out. (Source: Rick Wilcox, Mountain Rescue Service of New Hampshire)

Analysis

Many ice climbers are “going for it” without protection because of the quality of the ice climbing accouterments. It is thought by the expert climbers that the act of placing protection can be a greater hazard than just climbing. The result is that sometimes deciding the lesser of the two evils can be a dilemma. In this particular case, it seems the hardest, crux part of the route had been accomplished, so that perhaps Cummins’ concentration was not what it might have been earlier on. As for the rappel accident which followed here, one can only wonder as to what might have been going on in Imbare’s mind. (Source: J. Williamson)