EXPOSURE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, CLIMBING ALONE

California, Mt. Shasta

On August 15, 1978, Martin Thomas (67) was reported missing on Mt. Shasta. On August 11, he had been left at the 13,000 foot level to climb alone to the top by a Sierra Club leader. A helicopter search attempt was begun on August 15 of the south slopes. At 13,000 feet above the Mud Creek Slide area, Thomas was spotted. The helicopter flew Thomas off the mountain. Thomas stated that he had spent two nights on Mt. Shasta and had made two attempts to find the right ridge to get off the mountain. He was in the process of a third attempt when found. Thomas was weak and disoriented but in good physical condition. (Source: Siskiyou County Sheriff’s Office and Punto Alto Mountaineering)

Analysis

Thomas was an inexperienced climber left to climb by himself. There was a time lag of four days before Thomas was reported missing. Thomas wore a heavy coat, gloves, cap, and boots, but in light of the potential danger of Mt. Shasta, this was not adequate bivouac gear. Details as to why Thomas was left to climb by himself were not available. (Source: Siskiyou County Sheriff’s Office and Punto Alto Mountaineering)