PULMONARY EDEMA, EXHAUSTION—Alaska, Mt. McKinley. A group of Japanese climbers from the Saitama Alpine Club became exhausted while making a carry from 16,000 feet to 17,000 feet on the West Buttress route. Four of them bivouacked on the night of May 28. After their arrival at 17,000 feet the next morning, Keiji Kikuchi (24) began vomiting. By late that evening, Kikuchi was unable to walk and had vomited again. On May 30, Kikuchi lost consciousness and was administered oxygen, which brought him back. On May 31, he was able to begin the descent, but he collapsed on the fixed ropes on the descent to 14,000 feet and again received oxygen, which enabled him to make it to the camp. By this time, he had not eaten in three days.

On the afternoon of May 30, Park Headquarters was notified of the situation developing on the mountain. Weather conditions were poor enough to request that the victim be lowered to a least 14,000 feet. An Army Helicopter stationed at Talkeetna was used to evacuate Kikuchi to Anchorage. (Source: Bob Gerhard, McKinley Park.)

Analysis: The party appeared to have been pushing very hard. Continuing to ascend after a cold bivouac contributed to the situation. (Source: Bob Gerhard, McKinley Park.)