FALL ON ICE, UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST OR BELAY—Alaska, Mt. Foraker. On the morning of March 24, David Dausel (23) and Dan Solie (21) were climbing at the 13,500 foot level on Mt. Foraker’s west ridge. They were 100 vertical feet below the other roped team of Earl Redman (28) the expedition leader, and Mike Sallee (30). All were experienced members of the Alaska Alpine Club, and this was their summit-bid —alpine style. Dausel and Solie slipped and fell down a 50-60° slope and ended up in a bergschrund 400 feet below the start of the fall. Both suffered broken ankles and possible fractured ribs.

Redman and Sallee descended to the bergschrund, evaluated the situation and notified the National Park Service of their situation, requesting an evacuation. The party was dug in on the mountain sitting out high winds (50 + mph). The victims were moved to a cave at the pick up site in a col on the ridge the following day when weather conditions improved. Darkness prevented an evacuation attempt on the 25th. At 6:05 a.m. on March 26, Redman reported excellent conditions on Foraker. A 402 Cessna cover plane and an Evergreen Bell 205 helicopter were contacted and sent to the scene. The helicopter was able to evacuate Dausel and Solie and fly them to Providence Hospital in Anchorage.

On March 30, Redman and Sallee were still in the process of retreating down the ridge. At 11,200 feet, Sallee slipped on ice and was blown over and began to fall. Redman was pulled along and made several attempts to selfarrest. Their fall ended in a crevasse 300 feet down the slope. Injuries were relatively minor (sprains and scratches) and they were able to proceed out under their own power to a landing strip. (Source: Bob Gerhard, McKinley Park.)

Analysis: The party was weakened by the departure of two members early in the expedition. A rope of four instead of two ropes of two, while perhaps too slow for their alpine-style bid, may have been safer on the ridge. When the party was further reduced by two members, belay potential was weakened even more. (Source: Bob Gerhard, McKinley Park.)