FALL ON SNOW—Alberta, Mt. Lefroy. Michael and Valerie Laub were descending Mt. Lefroy to Abbot’s Pass on August 10. They were cramponing down a steep slope of 3 inches of snow on a firm ice and snow base, with about 20 feet of rope between them. A short distance below the summit ridge they stopped belaying each other and Michael went down first. Valerie slipped and fell onto her back and was not able to turn over. She slid past Michael, who immediately jammed his ice axe into the snow, but it only went in half way before the rope came taut. It was immediately pulled out and Michael fell. He tried to stop himself, but the wooden shaft of the ice axe broke. They slid about 1300 vertical feet before stopping just short of the cliffs into Abbot’s Pass, and were badly shaken with numerous sprains, cuts, and abrasions. The accident was seen from the Abbot Hut and one occupant went to Lake O’Hara Lodge to summon help, while the others went to help the fallen climbers. The Laubs were evacuated by helicopter. (Source: M. Laub and Banff Crag and Canyon.)

Analysis: The accident was caused by a combination of three mistakes. First, they had stopped belaying each other just before the accident; considering the fresh snow and firm base, this should not have been done. Second, Valerie was the less experienced of the two, and in particular had little experience on crampons, and she should have been first on the rope. Third, Valerie had had too little practice in self-arrest. (Source: M. Laub.)