FALL ON SNOW AND ICE AND NO BELAY—Alberta, Moraine Lake, 3-4 Couloir. Alison Clough and Dave Charlebois were descending the couloir from the Graham Cooper Hut on a rope at 8 a.m. on July 3, 1977 as part of a larger party. The first rope, which was below them, called for more speed, and Clough responded. She was front-pointing down toward Charlebois, who was not belayed, when she stepped off a small drop and tumbled backwards down the slope. Charlebois managed to stop her, but was pulled from his stance and lost his axe. His pack frame hit Clough very painfully in the back (it was discovered later that she had broken three ribs) and they both fell down the couloir. Clough also lost her hold on her ice axe, but was able to recover it, as it was tied to her harness. They were stopped after falling about 1200 feet by both the ice axe and an avalanche that was falling with them. Clough had much pain in her back and suspected she had a compression fracture of the spine, and spat some blood. She was helped down the couloir by Chris Hamilton, the leader of the party, and Rob MacDonald. She had lost her gloves in the fall, but remained warm and dry afterwards because she was wearing good woolen clothing and an over-outfit of Goretex.

The fall had been noticed from Moraine Lake Lodge, and a helicopter arrived as the party reached the edge of Moraine Lake. Clough refused it and was supported by the leader. They crossed the lake by rowboat, and refused an ambulance that was waiting for them on the other side. She was finally driven to Banff Hospital, lying down in the rear of a four-wheel-drive vehicle. She was not seriously injured, but her ribs were very painful for about three weeks. (Source: Alison Clough, C. Hamilton, R. MacDonald, C. Baumgartner, and M. Kohlman.)

Analysis: The general conditions were reasonably safe for the descent, but a number of mistakes contributed to the accident, and some could have made it much worse. Clough and Charlebois should not have climbed down without belay, should have had less rope between them and should not have responded to the call for more speed. The helicopter should not have been refused, in spite of her insistence, because Clough’s injuries might have been severe. They should not have crossed the lake in a jerky rowboat, and should not have refused the ambulance.

Clough was using a Chouinard “Zero Piolet” which was 42 cm long, and had practiced arrests with it and found it satisfactory; it did not seem to have contributed to the accident. She was wearing an M.S.R. helmet, which was thoroughly scraped and banged, and probably prevented more serious injury. (Source: Alison Clough.)