FALL, NO PROTECTION—California, Yosemite Valley, Tiny Tim. Mark Thompson (18) was climbing as leader on Tiny Tim. The belayer tied on one bolt and belay line running through a second bolt—both bolts being approximately 65 feet off the ground. Belayer was at top of first pitch, Thompson was almost to the top of the second pitch approximately 75 feet above belayer. Thompson’s partner stated that as Thompson made the last move on the pitch, he slipped and peeled off backwards, striking the ground before the belayer could catch him, as he had climbed beyond effective protection. (Source: R. Cooley, Yosemite National Park)

Analysis: The leader could have put in protection to prevent fall to ground, or, lacking experience for unprotected climb, could have backed off. (Source: R. Cooley, Yosemite National Park)