American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Fall, Solo Climbing—California, Yosemite Valley, Church Bowl

  • Accident Reports
  • Accident Year:
  • Publication Year: 1977

FALL—AFTER CLIMB COMPLETED—California, Tahquitz. Stan Klein, a climber from Loma Prieta Chap. RCS who has moved to LA, was making his second climb of the day with Jim McPherson. Stan led the last pitch of Graham Crackers. He completed the move at the top of the pitch and was walking off the sloping summit toward a belay position when he slipped and fell back over the edge of the wall.

All except one point of protection (chocks) failed. His belayer stopped the falling climber ten feet of the ground. This is about a 200 foot fall, and Stan had struck the rock several times.

A climbing doctor who was in the immediate area supervised as Stan was carried by stretcher to the roadhead (1/4 mile). An ambulance transported him to the Hemet Hospital. His injuries were amazingly light considering the severity of the fall and the fact that he was not wearing a helmet. They amounted to a broken left ankle, broken right foot, and many abrasions. (Source: Jim McPherson, The Mugelnoos, #522)

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